How to Choose a Climbing Harness

Your climbing harness is the link between you, the rope and the wall.

It is one of the most important bits of climbing kit you will ever buy. The right harness keeps you safe, lets you focus on your climbing and feels comfortable enough that you can forget about it most of the time.

The wrong harness can dig in, slide around, distract you and make every session feel harder than it needs to be.

This guide will help you choose a climbing harness that fits your body, suits your style of climbing and lets you climb with confidence.

Quick answer: how do you choose a climbing harness?

To choose a climbing harness, look for:

• A safe and certified harness from a trusted climbing brand
• A comfortable fit around your waist and legs
• A style that matches your type of climbing
• The right number of gear loops for what you actually do
• Adjustable leg loops if you climb in different clothing layers

For most climbers, an all round indoor and outdoor sport climbing harness is a strong starting point.

If you only boulder, you do not need a harness yet.

What does a climbing harness do?

A climbing harness wraps around your waist and legs and connects you to the rope through the belay loop.

It supports your weight when you fall, hang or get lowered. It also gives you a place to clip gear, chalk bags and other accessories using gear loops.

A good harness should:

• Feel snug but not painful
• Sit just above your hips
• Spread weight across the waist and legs
• Stay in place when you climb
• Be comfortable to hang in

You should always make sure your harness is climbing certified. Look for safety markings from a recognised standard before buying.

Indoor or outdoor use

The type of climbing you do is the biggest factor in choosing a harness.

Indoor climbing

For indoor climbing, a basic, comfortable harness is usually enough.

You do not need many gear loops because you are not carrying lots of equipment. You mostly need a harness that feels good to hang in, fits well and stays in place when you fall on indoor lead routes or get lowered after a top rope climb.

Sport climbing

For sport climbing, a slightly more padded harness can be useful, especially for longer routes or projecting where you may rest on the rope.

Look for one with:

• A few gear loops for quickdraws
• Comfortable padding
• Adjustable leg loops if needed
• Light enough for long sessions

Trad climbing and multi pitch

For trad climbing and multi pitch routes, you may need a harness with more gear loops and a stronger build for racking and hanging.

Look for one with:

• Four or more gear loops
• A loop for a chalk bag
• A loop for an ice clipper if relevant
• Comfort for long days on the rock

Mountaineering or alpine climbing

For mountaineering, alpine or winter climbing, lightweight or adjustable leg loop harnesses can make it easier to put the harness on over boots or layered clothing.

These harnesses are usually lighter, simpler and more packable.

What makes a good climbing harness?

A good climbing harness should be:

• Comfortable
• Adjustable
• Safe and certified
• The right shape for your body
• Easy to put on and take off
• Built for the type of climbing you actually do

The most important thing is fit.

A great harness on someone else may feel awful on you. Always try harnesses on if you can. Adjust the waist and leg loops. Hang in it if the shop has a hang test point.

How should a climbing harness fit?

The harness should sit just above your hips, with the waist belt tightened so you cannot easily pull it down.

Check that:

• The waist belt sits snug but not painful
• You cannot pull the waist belt down over your hips
• There is room to fit a flat hand under the leg loops
• The tie in points sit centrally
• Buckles are doubled back where needed

A good fit means the harness does not move around when you climb, hang or get lowered.

If the waist belt slides down or the leg loops slip up, the harness does not fit you correctly.

What are gear loops for?

Gear loops are the loops on the side of the harness used to hold equipment.

You should never tie in to a gear loop and never lower from one. Gear loops are not load bearing.

Use them for:

• Quickdraws
• Slings
• Carabiners
• Belay device
• Chalk bag (sometimes)
• Brushes
• Cams and trad gear

Two gear loops are usually fine for indoor climbing and basic sport climbing.

Four gear loops or more are useful for trad, multi pitch or alpine climbing where you carry more gear.

Padded or minimalist?

Harnesses range from light and minimal to heavily padded.

Padded harnesses

Padded harnesses spread weight more comfortably and are good for:

• Longer routes
• Hanging belays
• Projecting
• Top rope sessions where you sit in the harness often

The downside is they are heavier and warmer.

Minimalist harnesses

Lightweight harnesses are good for:

• Alpine climbing
• Mountaineering
• Multi pitch
• Climbers who want less bulk

The downside is they may not be as comfortable for long hangs.

For most beginner and progressing climbers, a moderately padded harness is a good balance.

Adjustable leg loops or fixed leg loops?

Some harnesses have adjustable leg loops, others have fixed leg loops.

Adjustable leg loops

Adjustable leg loops let you change the fit easily, useful if you climb in shorts in summer and trousers or thermals in winter.

Good for:

• Outdoor climbing in changing seasons
• Mountaineering
• Climbers who want one harness for everything

Fixed leg loops

Fixed leg loops are simpler and sometimes lighter or more comfortable.

Good for:

• Indoor climbing
• Sport climbing
• Climbers who climb in similar clothing most of the time

For most indoor and sport climbers, fixed leg loops are fine. For varied outdoor use, adjustable leg loops can be useful.

Common harness mistakes

Some common mistakes when choosing a harness:

• Buying the wrong size
• Choosing based on looks rather than fit
• Picking a heavy trad harness for indoor only use
• Picking a minimalist harness for long hanging sessions
• Not adjusting the leg loops properly
• Tying in to the wrong point or to a gear loop

Always check your tie in before you climb. Get a partner to check your knot, harness and belay system.

Best climbing harness type by climber

Indoor climbers

Comfortable basic harness with two gear loops and adjustable waist. Comfort matters more than weight.

Sport climbers

Slightly padded harness with two to four gear loops. Comfortable to hang in for projecting.

Trad and multi pitch climbers

Harness with four or more gear loops, more padding and adjustable leg loops if needed.

Mountaineers and alpinists

Lightweight, packable harness with adjustable leg loops that can fit over boots and layers.

Quick buying checklist

Before buying a climbing harness, ask yourself:

• What type of climbing will I do most?
• How many gear loops do I need?
• Do I want padded comfort or lightweight feel?
• Will I climb in different clothing layers?
• Does it fit well around my waist and legs?
• Does it sit just above my hips and stay in place?
• Is it certified for climbing?

If you can answer yes to those, you are usually on the right track.

Final thoughts

A climbing harness is one of the most personal bits of climbing kit you will ever buy.

Fit, comfort and intended use matter more than the brand on the label.

The best climbing harness for you is the one that fits your body, suits your climbing and lets you forget about it while you climb.

Take time to try harnesses on. Adjust them properly. Hang in them if you can.

When the harness feels right, you can stop thinking about it and start climbing like you've done it before.